Grand Manan Trip

We decided we should visit Grand Manan Island before the end of the season this year and didn't want to be there on a holiday weekend. We figured to go on Thursday and return Friday and miss the busy Labour Day weekend. It turned out to be a good decision as we had excellent weather on Thursday, probably the best of the whole weekend.

We left early on Thursday because we had to do some picnic shopping (no prepared meats) before leaving. We had planned to arrive at the ferry terminal at Black's Harbour early enought to get a good spot for the 11:30 ferry. We arrived at the empty parking lot at 9:22 and the traffic monitor motioned us forward. We were the last to get on the Ferry in the last spot which was just big enough for our small vehicle. When they closed the ramp there was less than a hand width between our bumper and the ramp. Close.

We spent the trip over on the aft deck. It was bright and sunny. Lots of sea birds - puffins, cormorants, gannets, gulls - and, much to everyone's delight, a humpback whale surfaced right beside the ship. Wow. Another $100 whale watching tour for free.

Upon arrival we snagged a tourist map and drove to the north end of the island for lunch. There's a look-out there (The Whistle) and while we had our lunch, we saw four (some say it was six) porpoises and at least one seal. Comet made friends with a Forester from Washington State. Power for the Island comes via an underwater cable that comes ahore here. I was hoping that someone on the island had put in a windmill, but none were in evidence.

There aren't many roads on Grand Manan and nearly all the settlement is on the esatern shore because the western shore is almost totally sheer cliffs. One spot on the west side where there is a natural harbour is called Dark Harbour. There is a kelp growing operation there. On the road into Dark Harbour there is a cliff made up of columnar basalt. I haven't seen it for real before.

We continued along the road to Southwest Head. There's a light there along with a number of antennae protected by fences and warning signs. The main vegetation was shrubby birches, junipers, and Cinqefoil. The land ends abruptly here with sheer black cliffs of volcanic rock.

Before heading to our accommodations we stopped at The Anchorage Provincial Park. There is a series of ponds behind a barrachois, with picnic sites and trails all along the ponds. We stopped for a while so I could read the newspaper while Wendy picked some raspberries.

Wendy made reservations at a quirky place (Castalia Marsh Retreat) with a group of cabins, each with a theme. We stayed in a Yurt. Wendy said it had all the nice things about a tent along with all the nice things about not sleeping in a tent. (A yurt is a tent used by Mongolian herdsmen. If you're reading this on line, Google Yurt.) It had a fridge and a stove, a composting toilet and a shower with hot water. It rained Thrusday night and it was pleasant to listen to the rain inside a nice dry, cosy bed.

In the morning we went to Red Point where Wendy and Comet walked a trail while I did some birdwatching. We were looking for a geological feature where volcanic and metamorphic rocks meet. That remains for another trip. There is a magnificent bakery on the island, conveniently located just before you get to the ferry (or just as you arrive on the island) and we picked up some excellent bread before leaving.

Wendy had wisely made a reservation fr the ferry and we were among the first three cars on. We were directed to the upper deck (first on, last off). The trip back to Black's Harbour was cool and wet so we stayed indoors and played Quiddler and read. To get off the ship we had to wait until the lower decks were cleared and then our deck tilted down. Quite an exciting ride!

I have a feeling we're not done with Grand Manan and we'll be going back some day to finish our explorations.

Harvey